DrFermento.Net

The good news this week is that the proposed 10 percent alcohol tax proposal has been shelved due to a lack of voter signatures necessary to put the initiative on the April ballot.  It’s hard to determine what this means in terms of voter intent because there never has been any vehicle to outwardly oppose the move to increase alcohol taxes.  You either sign the petition or you don’t.  I feel that there were very few voters on either side that were ever truly aware of the issue.  Regardless, the price of beer got a stay of execution with the recent move of supporters of the tax initiative to set it aside.  Don’t forget for a moment, however, that it will for sure rear its ugly head again and you need to be prepared for it by outwardly voicing your concern to the legislature when it does. 

In the spirit of exploring the explosion of seasonal winter beers hitting the market, I picked up a sixer of Bridgeport Ebenezer.  A couple of years ago, I was fascinated by this beer because it provided a nice, homey, warm alternative to the more aggressive Pacific Northwest seasonals like Wassail and Jubelale. 

The brewery describes this beer as:   “An appropriately rich and complex winter warmer, Ebenezer Ale is a true celebration of the season.  Rich, malty and enough flavor to stand up to any figgy pudding.  There are many things from which good may be delivered, yet sorry few from which greatness will appear.  So it is in the hope and homage of the wonders of a changed spirit that we offer our seasonal ale.”  I get the first part, but all I can say about the second part of the description is “whatever.” 

The aroma is somewhat alcoholic initially, but I left the beer on deck (warming) perhaps a little too long, so this may be the culprit considering the beer weighs in at 6.4 percent.  Under that lies a nice compendium of medium malts, chocolate and perhaps a wispy dose of cinnamon.  Noble hops are evident throughout.  Nice toasted elements give the beer a warming sensation even in the nose.  Caramel notes and a sweet center define the nose.  The combination lends a slight juicy fruit nose to the beer.

The beer pours chestnut brown, clear and with a quickly dissipating head.  An orange-red glow emanates from the middle.  I don’t know why, but this seems entirely appropriate for the style.

In terms of flavor, Ebenezer is  richly malty with a nice, toasted caramel, lightly spiced center.  Again, the alcohol is evident, even at 6.4 percent by volume.  Slightly floral hop flavors combine nicely with the spicing, and some hop bitterness emerges late in the sip and extends briefly into the finish.  The beer is sweet, but finishes just on the dry side. 

Ebenezer is medium bodied and well carbonated.  An even texture massages the mouth and lends a smooth finish to the beer.

This well made beer is only lightly spiced which is a bonus because the spicing doesn’t compete with the complex malt profile.  There’s some distinct brown ale character and even some old ale character in the beer.  Ebenezer would provide a nice alternative to the more defining and aggressive Pacific Northwest seasonal beers including Jubelale and Wassail. 

Anheuser Bush continues its foray into the craft beer market with this year’s release of Jack’s Pumpkin Spice Ale.  This is the second year for this beer and it’s a good contender in the mix of spiced pumpkin beers on the market.  The clove, nutmeg, allspice and cinnamon elements in the nose are balanced and don’t compete with the malt.  The orange-amber beer doesn’t rock up much of a head, but warming may help if that’s important to you.  Only a slight, somewhat anemic white head rings the glass. 

The flavor follows the aroma almost footstep for footstep, but the thin, almost watery finish and aggressive carbonation is a slight distraction.  Don’t expect any hop character beyond a balancing contribution.  The beer tilts toward the sweet side like most pumpkin ales do, but it doesn’t come across as sappy by any means.  The spices are ample and the pumpkin is feint, but in totality, this is a very decent beer and I’d easily buy more.

Pumpkin ales are popular from mid-October until just after Thanksgiving, then people tend to palate-shift to full blown winter seasonal ales, so look for this stuff on sale toward the end of the season. 

While on the A-B subject, it seems that Redhook Ale Brewery and Widmer Brothers Brewing Company have agreed to combine operations.  This will result in a new company called the Craft Brewers Alliance.  This has been going on for some time.  Sales and marketing operations have already been combined.  The Redhook and Widmer brands will remain separate, however.  Remember, A-B owns Redhook, but inside sources tell me nothing’s going to change and the same great Widmer products will continue to flow forth as the recent brewery expansion is completed. 

Glacier Brewhouse is back in the news.  Last week, I learned that Glacier garnered a gold medal at the Festival of Wood and Barrel Aged Beer in Chicago.  On November 10^th, Glacier’s beer competed in the West Coast Barrel Aged Beer Fest at the Bistro in Hayward, California.  In the “wine” category (beers aged in wine barrels), Glacier pulled the gold medal for their Russian Imperial Stout aged in a Silverado wine barrel.  Great job, Glacier!  Glacier Brewhouse and especially brewer Kevin Burton does well with oak aging.  The venerable “Wall O’ Wood” downstairs under the brewery boasts deeply sleeping, foreboding beers that are only released with the time is right. 

Mark your calendar for December 6, 2007 when Glacier hosts the 2007 Holiday Big Beer Dinner.  This tasting features five beers and five well-paired courses of food. Round One smashes in the holiday season in a big way with the 2008 Big Woody Barleywine (aged for 10 months in Honig Winery barrels paired with Wild Boar Sausage, Cannellini Bean, Oven Dried Tomato and a beer reduction.  Initially I thought it odd to pair an 11.03 percent barley wine with the first course, but I had to keep reminding myself that is is a BIG BEER dinner. 

Round Two features the double-barrel 2006 Big Woody Barleywine.  This beer’s been snoozing for an astounding 19 months in a Jim Beam barrel, and then it was transferred to American oak wine barrels (Silverado) for another year.  Glacier works with Silverado’s coopers and has them custom burn (toast) the barrels to the brewery’s specifications.  This 11.16 percent beer is paired with a Humboldt Goat Cheese Tart, Roast Exoctic Mushrooms, “Micro Greens” and a truffle.

Round Three boasts the multiple-year return of the 2004 Cherry XXXmas Ale that’s been aged for three years in Beam barrels.  This tart cutter will reset the palate for the courses to come.  Burton nicknamed this beer “Santa’s Little Helper,’ and at 10.5 percent alcohol, you might need help into the cab after this obvious designated driver event.  A Roast duck Salad made with dried cherries walnuts and smoked blue cheese and a 15 year Balsamic emulation (dressing) will round out the session. 

The beer for Round Four has been left up to Burton and hasn’t bee announced yet.  This Brewmaster’s Surprise beer is bound to astound.  Try to imagine what vintage selection from the vault will pair evenly with Olive Oil Poached Umpqua Valley Lamb, Root Vegetable Ratatouille,  and Roasted Beet Jus.  With over 50 barrels of high octane stuff under the restaurant floor, Burton will have to do his homework, but his library offers works that span the history of the establishment so it’s guaranteed to be good. 

The final round (Round Five) is the dessert round and Glacier’s  2007 Russian Imperial Stout will be paired with a “Three Bites” desert (don’t ask me).  All I know is that the stout 9.2 percent beer is the lightest in the bunch.  An Imperial Stout described as “light”?  Slap me!  I did a little simple math and determined that the four listed bees average 10.47 percent and I know what Burton drags up from the depths for the surprise beer (round four) will only bump the average percentage beyond sensibility. 

Limited seating makes this $70 a person dinner an undeniable RSVP/designated driver/alternative transportation event.  Burton doesn’t play when it comes to this shit, so take it seriously.  Reserve now (274-2739) and plan ahead.   Excedrin and a quart of water on the nightstand are appropriate as well. 

On tap at Glacier Brewhouse as of Thursday, November 15^th will be the Blonde, Amber, IPA, Hefeweizen, Stout, Imperial Blonde, Bohemian Pilsner, Double IPA, Bock, Cask Porter and Beam Stout.  There’s lots of reason to fight for downtown parking!

Returning Christmas beers on the horizon, thanks to Rob Weller of Specialty Imports include Scaldis Noel, Prestige and Dupont’s Bon Voeux Christmas Ale and two very special keg versions of Scaldis’ Belgian Special Ale and Dupont’s Les Dons Voux.  The destination for the special kegs hasn’t been announced yet, but I have my suspicions, so stay tuned for updates.

If you’re shopping ahead for Christmas gifts, consider Specialty’s contribution of a Van Steenberge Six Pack Sampler, a Leute Bok Gift Box, a Boucanier Gift Pack (2 bottles and a brewery glass), their Golden (in a metal gift cylinder), Petrus Glass Pack (Petrus Golden and a brewery glass), Box Collection (six pack), Winter Ale Gift Set, Winter Ale (with glass) and Brugse Zot Halve Man (in a metal tin).  This is making Christmas shopping for Dr. Fermento pretty easy this year. 

Specialty is also bringing back an extensive Boon selection and a bunch of Dupont beers that can be artfully paired with holiday meals or hauled along to your holiday festivity destinations. 

This week, Tap Root Café is featuring Espresso Bock from The Snow Goose Restaurant and Sleeping Lady Brewing Company.  This noteworthy beer features locally roasted Kaladi Brothers Red Goat Coffee on top of a authentic German bock recipe including the full compendium of Euro malts and hops.  It’s on at the Goose as well, but if you’re a Southsider and don’t want to make the trek to Downtown, Tap Root on Huffman (across from the Well’s Fargo bank) is an easy jaunt.  If a speedball isn’t your forte, other beers include Midnight Sun Brewing Company’s Sloth (a Belgian-style Imperial Stout), Franziskaner Hefe-Weissbier Hell (no, it’s not satanic, but devilishly good), Franziskaner Hefe Weissbier Dunkel, Uerige Doppelsticke (not to be confused with a doppelpopsicle) and the incredible Aecht Schlenkerla Marezen (the style-defining smoke beer from Bamberg).  Finally, there’s Spaten Optimator, a stylistic big banger of a beer at 7.2 percent alcohol.  With the addition of more tap lines, Tap Root is becoming a venerable beer destination in South Anchorage.  It’s quiet, friendly and easy to get to. 

Homebrewers may recognize the name Chris Anderson.  He was a proficient, well-liked and participatory homebrewer that made a big different in the club.  Chris relocated to Southern California earlier this year and resides outside of San Deigo where he continues to make good beer.  Chris now belongs to the Coachella Valley Homebew Club and is one of the event-packing six members of this fledgling organization.  Just for comparison, there are no BJCP Certified members in the club and remain amazed at Chris’s one-barrel brew system.  Needless to say, Chris misses Alaska in some respects.

Chris emailed me in response to the blog and invited people to participate in this year’s Strong Ale Festival on November 30^th and December 1^st at the host organization, Pizza Port in Carlsbad (571 Carlsbad Village Drive).  What’s a strong ale festival?  In this case, it’s a festival that recruits and showcases potent brews with a basement ABV of 8 percent or more.  Over 60 beers will be available for sampling.  The gig’s $25 admission price buys a commemorative glass and eight taster tickets.  Its only a buck more for additional four-ounce pours after that.  I had to do my nerdy thing again and did the math.  That means that chances are, since eight percent is the basement alcohol content, the average is probably up there around 10 percent.  That means that at a buck a pour, a whole bottle’s worth of knee-knocking grog would set me back three bucks.  That equates to a low budget liver bender in my book. 

Of course, that’s not the point.  It’s all about education as these events tend to be.  It’s about responsibly sampling good, albeit high-octane beer.  The event runs from 4-11 pm on Friday November 30^th and from 11 AM – 11 PM on Saturday December 1^st.  Chris has offered to secure tickets for any GNBC members that might be coming to the event and offered to coordinate transportation and stuff like that.  If you’re interested, get with me and I’ll get you in touch with Mr. Anderson.  Oh, one last thing.  Did I mention that this was a designated driver event?  It is.

Things are poppin’ over at The Snow Goose Restaurant and Sleeping Lady Brewing Company with brewery Clay Brackley at the helm and assistant brewer Gary Mills backing him up.  These two astute brewers jumped in at a critical time for the Goose as far as I’m concerned, and turned around an ill-fated brew ship and got it off the rocks.  If you haven’t been to the Goose in a while, it’s time for a visit because at least the beer has improved by leaps and bounds. 

Now that things have slowed down with the tourist season at seasonal bay, Brackley and Mills have time to slow down, regroup and strategize the future.  With that comes some interesting developments and ferments.  This week, the brewers rack over an English Braggot brewed with English pale malt and 120 pounds of fireweed honey.  This might seem like a “leave it alone” beer, but it’s been snoozin’ in Jack Daniels barrels in the bowels of the Goose since July.  A new barley wine is in production using a new yeast strain that’s more high-octane tolerant and should get some better terminal gravity drops than the house yeast has been doing in years past.  Brackley is playing with an Imperial stout as well and hops that the barley wine finishes at around 12 percent and the stout at around 10.  An imperial pilsner is in the works that combines German pilsner, Vienna and some what malt and is hopped with German Magnum and Czech Saaz.  Extended aging means don’t look for this beer for at least another six weeks or so. 

Brackley has had a winter warmer in his back pocket but delayed the release until we got significant white stuff on the ground.  Now it’s just waiting for an open tap at the pub.  There’s enough that Brackley concedes that it might show up at Humpy’s as well, and possible Café Amsterdam. 

In the design phase is an American Dark Wheat Ale, which sounds benign until you consider that what’s planned is the addition of sour cherries, sweet cherries and raspberries after it’s divvied up into separate fermenters for different incantations of the same base beer that includes English chocolate malts and a high-end fermentation that will produce an anticipated bigger, fruiter aroma.  This incantation will be dubbed a Chocolate Cherry Wheat Ale, or something like that.

The Goose’s Scottish Bravehart fans will relish in the plans to expand the base beer into three beers in the Scottish tradition of a single beer with different gravities.  Look for 80, 90 and 120 shilling versions to emerge in the future. 

Beyond that, Brackley is project-full with plan for a Triple Wheat Ale (along the lines of a wheat wine), a Maibock and a straight Wit.  This are ambitious plans that require careful monitoring by the beer writer and drinker alike to ensure a sample of each.  Brackley knows it’s ambitious and all consuming.  “Once that is over it will probably be tourist time again and I will have to put away the high gravity stuff until August of 2008,” he said.

Sometimes I find the best beer in the oddest places.  Years ago, someone tipped me that when driving to Fairbanks, just before hitting the big city, is a little community called Ester.  Ester is the home of the Gold Hill Liquor Store and Grocery.  I made a point to stop and was surprised at the assemblage of craft beer in the place and even discovered some seemingly forgotten vintage beers in the back corner of a walk-in cooler.  I’ve been back many times since.  I’m told now that the formerly cluttered store has been spruced up, organized and presents a warm and inviting environment.  Usually this kind of news elicits a yawn and a “so what” from me because it’s the goods, not the glamour that bait me in to a place.  Hell, I’d sit on a dock with my feet in raw sewage for the right beer.  Wait.  Did I say that?  I digress.

The store was recently bought by Susan Osborne, and she’s a real high-quality beer aficionado.  She’s dedicated recent efforts into bolstering the collection of craft and imported beers and prominently features them in the store.  She’s organized the beer mostly by style, which is interesting I’m flattered as well that she even has some of my blogs and Anchorage Press articles printed and left out for handouts.  What a gal!  Next time you’re in there (since I don’t get up that way very often) look her up and thank her for her efforts to keep good beer on the map, even near Squarebanks, the only town in America where Smokey the Bear says “To hell with it, need a match?”    Just spare Gold Hill, Smokey!

I penned a piece for next week’s Anchorage Press concerning the global hop shortage and the far reaching implications this will have on craft beer, especially here in Alaska.   I got the word that Great Bear Brewing Company in Wasilla is really feeling the pinch.  I called out there to talk to brewer Kaj Cornelison about the situation.  Despite the trials and tribulations, he was upbeat about the whole thing and credited Snow Goose Restaurant and Sleeping Lady Brewing Company brewer Clay Brackley with bailing him out.  Without de-winding my sails for next Thursday’s Anchorage Press column, suffice to say that we’re about to feel the pinch when it comes to big, hoppy beers.  So much for my theory of distilling hop oil and putting and end to the hop-bomb beer wars once and for all, global economics did it for me.  Cornelison gave me a quick run down on the dozen or so beers on tap out there. 

Wasilla Wheat (American Wheat Ale)

Big Su Strong Ale (just like it sounds: rather ass kicking)

Hatcher Pass Ale

Pioneer Peak Porter

Beary Berry Strong Ale (nicknamed “Universal Lucky Ale”  ask the brewer what it means)

Double Trouble IPA

Great Bear Gold

Squentna Dry Irish Stout

Whistle Stop Oatmeal Stout

Valley Trash (my vote for the best beer name this year)

Archangel Amber

TNT Barley Wine

Tripel Bruins Tripel

Guest taps include Moose’s Tooth’s Apple Cider and Lindeman’s Framboise.

Needless to say, even driving  to Great Bear for a sampler tray is a designated driver event.  These are all pretty big beers. I’ve had most of them, but I’m long overdue for a trip to no man’s land out there. 

Be sure to check the calendar section toward the end of the blog.  Midnight Sun Brewing Company sort of dominates the events happening around town.  I wish the other breweries, brewpubs and local venues would offer more in terms of special events.  Tap Root Café is doing a great job of keeping our interests piqued.  I cant resist mentioning Midnight Sun’s re-formulated Oosik Amber Ale again.  In my opinion, this just turned into a top-shelf session beer.  I want a T-Shirt that says “Oosik Amber because Love is Hard.”  You guys crack me up. 

I hit the Moose’s Tooth Pub and Pizzeria on Thursday night (11/15) to catch up on their offerings.  I never seem to make it over there for their First Tap events, but always manage to get in there in enough time to sample the featured beer for the month unless it’s sooooo good that it’s gone before I show up.  8 String Ale was the offering and I found it confoundedly interesting.  The brewery described the beer as a more or less “ordinary” pale ale.  Unique to the beer is the use of a newer hop variety from the Pacific Northwest called Mt. Rainier (hops).  Reputedly, these hops lend a orange-y, slightly spicy character to the beer.  I quickly deemed this an understatement. 

The nose on the beer is benign overall with a slightly earthy character with light malt and sweetness pushing through.  And yes, it was orange-y.  I went back again and again with tentative sniffs trying to dissect the individual elements, but I just couldn’t bail anything out that I recognized.  This isn’t a bad thing, it was just, well, confounding. 

The just slightly hazy orange/amber brew is served with a nice, sustaining white head which I find welcome in industry pints that are poured full to the brim and flat on top.  A fascinating citric tartness and even keel, down-the-middle bitterness welcomes the sip, followed by earthy pine notes and a slightly spicy, almost peppery character, and yes, that defining orange-y essence that confounded me once again.  My head’s sensory machine was working overtime trying to find familiarity, but I gave up and just enjoyed the beer’s overall interest that slightly obscured the slightly sweet malt presence underneath. 

The mouthfeel in this beer is a welcoming, silky-smooth, creamy sensation all the way through.  Ample carbonation helps float the palate and provides a smooth finish that begs another sip. 

Because the Moose’s Tooth’s Smokin’ Willie Smoked Porter was on tap and did so well at this year’s Great American Beer Festival (GABF), I couldn’t resist, knowing it’d perfectly complement the spicy Classic pizza pie I had on order.   I wasn’t disappointed.  Naturally, smoked malt aroma wafted off the top with distinct light chocolate and crystal notes following.  Other dark malts vied for attention. The surprisingly clear, dark beer provided a light tart element that immediately mitigated the smoke presence and perfectly balanced this non-aggressive full-character beer.  The sweet centered, dry-finishing beer also came wrapped in a very silky, smooth, creamy mouthfeel.  Moderate carbonation enhanced the sensation.  I definitely appreciate the porter’s strong presence in the beer. 

Because my server was distracted and the low-level light was on and hard-latched, I wandered to the bar to order the smoked porter and a couple of patrons asked me “Do you really like that beer?”  How do you respond to a question like this?  I was banking on the beer’s GABF reputation, so defending it was no problem, but I knew I was dealing with flavor whores and not beer lovers.  Sure, I could be wrong, but it was hard not to get defensive.  “Well,” I responded “I wouldn’t be ordering it if I didn’t like it,” I replied.  They’d tried the beer and found it “disgusting.”  I asked them if they’d ever tried Alaskan Brewing Company’s Smoked Porter and they conceded that they had not.  I asked them if they happened to sample the Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier Marzen currently on tap at Café Amsterdam and Humpy’s.  They had not.  I had just leveled the playing field.  It wasn’t worthy of discourse at that point and I simply said “Well, there are plenty of other great beers on the menu so find one you like and keep drinking.”  I turned on my heals and left. 

Other beers on the menu comprised the usual suspects including:

Alpenglow Amber

Polar Pale Ale

Klondike Gold

Spenard Nite Lite

Northern Lights Amber

Raspberry Wheat

Hard Apple Cider

Moose’s Tooth Hefeweizen

Pipeline Stout

Prince William Porter

Bear Tooth Ale

Midtown Brown

Fairweather IPA

As far as I’m concerned, the two jamokes at the bar had plenty to choose from if they don’t like smoke in their face.  

Be sure and check out the Thursday, 11/15 edition of the Anchorage Press for my suggestions for Thanksgiving beer pairings with the meal.  Forget about wine this year and celebrate craft beer with the season. 

BNC Fermento

Dr Fermento Beer Calendar

11/16/07   Midnight Sun                     Reformulated Oosik Amber Re-Release           6:00 PM                  Free

11/20/07   Snow Goose                        GNBC Meeting at the Goose                              7:00 PM                  Free

11/23/07   Midnight Sun                     Arctic Devil Barley Wine 2007 Release            6-9 PM                   Free

11/26/07   Tap Root Café                    Christmas Beer Tasting                                       7:00 PM                  $$??

11/29/07  MSBC/SubZero                   Pride Pre-Release party                                       7-9 PM                   PAYG

11/29/07   Brouwer’s Café                   Big Wood Festival (Seattle)                               ??                            $$??

11/30/07 Arctic Brewing                    Bigfish Entries Due                                              10:00 AM               Free

11/30/07   Midnight Sun                     Pride Belgian Style Strong Pale Ale Release   6-9 PM                   Free

12/01/07   SubZero                               Bigfish Homebrew Competition Judging         ??                            Free

12/01/07  MSBC/Café-A                      MSBC Firkin O’ Pilsner Party                             6:00 PM                  PAYG

12/07/07   Tap Root Café                    Homer Brewing Company Beer Release           8:00 PM  $              $??

12/08/07  Goose                                    GNBC Christmas Party                                        7:00 PM                  $$??

12/10/07   Glacier Brewhouse             12 Days of Barleywine Starts (12/10-12/21)     Daily                       PAYG

12/13/07  MSBC/SubZero                   Pre-Release of Lust at SubZero                         7-9 PM                   PAYG

12/14/07   Midnight Sun                     Lust: Belgian Style Dark Strong Ale release    6-9 PM                   Free

12/29/07   Tap Root Café                    MSBC 7 Deadly Sins Party                                 8:00 PM                  $$??

1/18-1/19 Eagan Convention Ctr        Beer and Barley Wine Festival                          Varies                     $30.00

02/08/08   Goose                                   Fur Rondy Entries accepted                               11 AM – 6 PM      Free

02/09/08   Goose                                   Rondy Homebrew Competition                         10:00 AM               Free

This entry was posted on Friday, November 16th, 2007 at 7:54 pm and is filed under Beer News. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.